Heavenly Hyacinths

Posted on June 1, 2011 by
Hyacinths

Hyacinths

Hyacinths are my most loved bulbs. Each year I look forward to growing and enjoying them while they flower. Their scent pervades the house from their containers; plant them on the balcony to captivate as we pass through to the garden. Originating from the Mediterranean and western Asia, the ones we see today are developed in Holland. The Dutch hybrids have a single flower. The smaller bulbs are great for planting in gardens as their flowers are smaller so are able to withstand outdoor conditions. When you grow them outside, they prefer a well-drained and sunny position. Given time, hyacinths multiply and enhance your garden, mixed in with jonquils a pretty picture.

Who can resist the first of the early or forced hyacinths when yours are just greening up in the garden? It is cheating but what does it matter, because we get a prolonged enjoyment from this bulb. The forced bulbs from shops and nurseries are especially grown for indoor uses so if you have bought a pot of the hyacinths; keep them in a cool sunny spot. They tend to fade quickly if they get too hot. When they have finished flowering plant them outside in the garden and forget about them. In the right place, they will pop up again next year. They appreciate a little blood and bone as well.

Growing your own bulbs could not be easier. Choose well-grown bulbs that are free from signs of rot (soft to a gentle squeeze), mould, and gouges. If you are buying one of the string bags with a number of bulbs, look closely and feel as any as you are able. I have found buying them like this there will always be some that are not up to scratch.
The smaller bulbs also will grow as well as some of the bigger bulbs.

Each year I store bulbs from the garden in a cool room for the next season. One of my grandchildren wanted to know why I had my onions stored here! She now knows that onions and bulbs are two different things. Then approximately six weeks before planting, I put them in the chiller bin in the refrigerator to chill down. This misleads the bulbs into thinking that winter is just around the corner and its time to get growing.

Plant your bulbs between four and six inches deep and the same distance apart. Plant those for growing in pots and containers just to their necks, and reduce the space between them. Hyacinths grown for children’s interest are grown in bulb pots. These are jars with a specially designed cup at the top of the jar. This allows the bulb to sit in the top and send its roots into the water. If you grow them like this, do not leave the base of the bulb in the water as it will rot and spoil your efforts.

Increasing your stash of bulbs could not be simpler. After the leaves and flowers have died off, you will find the bulb has what are called off sets, small attachments to the main bulb. These can be removed and grown on. Grow hyacinths from seed if you have the patience, as they will take up to three years to flower. Enjoy these wonderful flowers if you have not already done so.

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Can Beans be Grown in Containers

Posted on May 24, 2011 by

Beans

Beans

Beans are tasty vegetables to have in the garden or grow bags if you choose. Easy to grow given the right conditions to do so. There are four types of beans to choose from that will benefit your garden whether it be large or small. Beans are wonderfully easy to freeze, and as they are usually prolific providers, there is always more than enough and some left over for family meals.

The four types are Runner beans.
These are easy to grow and do well climbing up a support for that purpose. Ideal for the smaller garden they take up very little space. Plant the runner beans in full sun with some shelter from winds. These beans are perennial which means after they have produced their beans in the summer they will die back but regrow in the next season.

Broad beans.
Can handle the colder weather, and grow easily in most garden soils especially if it is sunny. These beans grow to about a metre tall and may need staking to assist them to remain upright. This depends on the variety of course, as they do vary in height. Plant these beans once the summer varieties are finished and there is space in the garden.

Dwarf French beans
These little guys grow into small bushes and can be superb croppers depending again on the variety planted. French beans are usually stringless and taste good. Give them a well manured/fertilized soil and a sunny spot in the garden, and you will be well rewarded.

Climbing French beans
These bean flowers set with out the presence of bees for pollination. In addition, it makes the appearance of beans more reliable than those of the Scarlet runners do. Great for flavour these beans continue producing after the dwarf beans have finished.

All beans need the same soil preparation in order to produce well. They grow better on well-drained soils and appreciate compost and fertilizer. Mulching over the hot weather, avoiding the stems, will help preserve the moisture and encourage continuing growth.
As I mentioned previously, protect beans from winds because strong winds can seriously spoil them. Dwarf beans are generally ready to pick six or eight weeks after sowing the seed, where the climbers may take up to ten or twelve weeks.

Grow climbing beans on a trellis, or wall that you have attached some wire or string. This allows the beans to have support while they are climbing. A wigwam arrangement is also successful where several tall bamboo stakes or poles are tied in such a manner to look like a teepee or wigwam. Using this sytstem in large containers makes growing climbing beans very feasible for growing beans on a balcony. Planting two or three seeds at the base of the stakes allows the beans to climb with support.

Harvesting of your beans should take place every day as frequent picking encourages more beans from the plant. Freeze those that are not required by slicing, blanching in boiling water for a couple of minutes and quickly chilling down. Lay on flat trays to freeze quickly. Laying them out on trays enables them to be free flowing once bagged. Don’t leave them after they are frozen on the trays because they will get burnt by the freezer and spoil.
You then take what you need when you need some home grown vegetables over the winter months.

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How to Grow Carrots in Containers

Posted on May 21, 2011 by

Carrots are the last thing people expect to come from a container!
You can grow carrots as well as you can in the garden where they take up a lot of room for a long time. The key is choosing the right type of carrot for the container you plan to use. Ideally plan to use the shorter, stumpy varieties of carrot. While growing the longer main crop carrots in larger containers is ok, it would be more productive to use the smaller ones. I guess it is more of personal preference, though.

Carrots seeds are sown anytime of the year in temperate climates such as we have here although they do better if planted in the cooler seasons of the year avoiding the hot summers for planting. Plantings in the autumn – winter period run the risk of not rooting up. Solve that sort of issue by trying them in your area. You do need to be aware that the young tops may be prone to frost bite if frosts are severe where you live.

A soil for planting carrots in containers requires well-structured sand based potting mix. The carrots being a root crop appreciate a good soil to thrive. The use of compost is good but make sure it is well mixed through the soil to avoid the mis-shapened roots so loved by children for the ‘school morning talk’.

Carrot seed is quite a fine seed, and needs to be spread carefully about 2 cm apart. Just sprinkle on the surface of the soil if you wish and thin later when they are larger. An old trick is to sow radish with carrots, as radish mature faster than carrots. You use the radish when ready, pulling them up leaves space for the carrots to grow. Cover with seed mix allowing a cover of ½ an inch (or 1cm). Depending on the type of carrot, you have chosen it will be two to three weeks before the seedlings emerge.
Stagger your plantings so that you can provide a continuous supply of carrots for your family, as the first seedlings appear, plant another lot in another container and so on.

Keeping the soil damp at all times from planting the seed keeps growth at a steady pace.
Do not over water, as over watering can promote more leaf growth, rather than the well-grown roots you require. Should the carrots containers dry out from lack of watering, giving them a big drink is likely to cause the roots to split. Tomatoes do the same when suddenly watered after drying out. So keeping the soil damp at all times, but not wet is beneficial for you and your carrots.

As they grow to about 5” in height start thinning them. Thinning means taking out some of the plants to allow others to grow unhindered. If you choose wisely, you can pull those that will make nice eating as ‘baby carrots’. Truly yummy.

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Preferably Pelargonium

Posted on May 16, 2011 by
Perfect pelargonium for pots

Perfect pelargonium for pots

Love them or hate them my first recollections of geraniums are from schooldays and early science lessons on plants. Geraniums it seems were the perfect plant for dissecting and learning all about plants. I do not remember the lessons but I do remember clearly the awful odor of the geraniums! To this day, I still do not like the smell of some but adore the scent of others.

Geraniums come under the heading of easy to grow, fool proof and useful for plant lessons. While called geraniums the plant we know as a geranium actually comes under the name of pelargonium. The geranium is a smaller fine leaved unassuming plant with the unlikely name of Cranes bill. The main categories of the geranium family are as follows.
• Zonal pelargonium are the common, large leafed plant that we are familiar with, they have the rounded leaves with the darker color within the leaf.
• Ivy leaved pelargonium are so called because their leaves are very similar to the ivy leaf. They are the ones that trail or climb and found in hanging baskets.
• Regal pelargoniums have large flowers and fan shaped leaves. This is hardy and suitable for growing near the sea, as it withstands a salty environment.
• Scented leaf pelargonium plants, are my favourite with the scent that just happens when you brush or drive over the leaves. They are incredibly easy to grow and soften paths and driveways.
• Dwarf pelargoniums are really miniatures of the above and are a small bush plant.

Pelargonium seems to grow unaided just about anywhere that is sunny and warm. They do best under these conditions, but do grow in a semi shade if you have a small courtyard or balcony that gets some sun during the day.

Taking cuttings of geranium-pelargonium could not be easier. Select a cutting the size of a pencil in thickness. Keep the size or length of it to about 4-5inches, (10-12cm).
A suitable soil mix for striking the cuttings is 75% river sand mixed with a 25% peat mix.
I always leave a leaf or two on my cuttings as I think they still need to use photosynthesis for their growth, it also aids the movement of water through the stem, in my opinion.

After 4-6 weeks, you will see the formation of new growth on your cuttings if they have taken, for these plants there is always a high strike rate. Then just follow normal potting habits, for growing on until planting in the garden or planting in containers for display. As they grow, you can aid flowering by pinching the tops out, reducing the likely hood of a straggly plant as well. The scented pelargonium needs a good pruning in late winter or spring. Experience has taught me not to drop pruned pieces if I do not want more plants sprouting!

This plant has very few health problems, but should there be insect damage from caterpillars, aphids or red spider mites spray with Maldison or for the caterpillars, carbaryl. Enjoy growing pelargonium for the sheer variety of their flowers and leaf shapes and their adaptability in a garden or as a container plant.

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Perfect Container Palms

Posted on May 11, 2011 by



Everyone admires the exotic look of palms or yuccas that
grow in pots on patio’s or the even larger ones that grow in pots on the bigger
estates. Growing palms in containers long term means using the
smaller palms. The dwarf fan palm (Chamaerops humilis) is a very slow growing
palm that will do all you expect of it.

All palms need watering well during the growing season, but
less over the winter but they do not leave standing in water. Palms look
stunning in conservatories, decks and patios. They are not real indoor plants,
as they need a lot of light and fresh air but seem to manage reasonably well.
Certainly planting some of my palms outside they said thank you! They have gone
on to grow extraordinarily well in the sheltered area that I planted them.

Palms grown inside will need their leaves sponged on a
regular basis, as they are generally plants from warm or tropical places of the
world and come from a humid atmosphere. Most of the palms that you see in homes
today are most likely the junior forms of the palms. Their slow growth can be
used to an advantage. Palms in pots can be a great addition to a small
courtyard that is shaded for a good bit of the day. Give it the company of
other pots and containers that have shade-loving plants like impatiens growing
in them.

Palms grow from seed but some do have very hard outer shells
that make them hard to germinate. It is probably easier just to buy the very
small plants or seed that have just sprouted from nurserymen.  This saves a lot of time and worry. The tiny
palms are found in the clearance bins of nurseries and supermarkets. Do not
expect to make huge profits quickly as their slow growth means you will be
growing them on for 5-8 years until they are a suitable size to be rehomed!

Palms tolerate a certain amount of root restriction in their
pots. When the roots are making their presence noticeable through the drainage
holes of the container is the time to consider repotting. Repot into a pot that
is between one and two inches bigger than the palms existing container. Leave
the roots undisturbed as they come out of the old pot when repotting. Once you
feel the palm is too big for its pot just plant out or sell on.

Palms can be attacked by scale insects; these are easily cleaned
off by using soapy water, or if the plant is outside, sprayed with white oil or
maldison. Palms you may like for your containers include the kentia,
fan palm, date palm or ponytail palm and Chamaedorea palm, date palm.

 

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Violets Forever

Posted on April 28, 2011 by



I love the scent of violets as all people have done over the millenniums. I hate it as a plant as it can become a nuisance, so I am torn between the two and as always, the perfect scent wins me over, and over again! So thus, I have patches of rampant violets that behave like spoilt children, forever getting their own way. The scientific name for this is Viola odorata. A close cousin is the heartsease pansy that also runs wild in the garden if you let it, but the little faces are so cute!

So if you want to further a love-hate relationship with this plant, just grow it! It grows easily, flowering in the spring with its purple, white flowers, even into a white yellow flower. Chosen as a sign of fertility by the early Greeks, you can certainly see why, once it has taken off in your garden! The preferred garden spot for this perennial is in a semi-shaded position. It appreciates some sun during the day, be it early or late in the day. To encourage flowers grow it in a sunnier part of the garden.

Propagation is truly easy, from the runners it sends out across the garden beds, you can cut the runners off the plant and transplant into another part of the garden. The violet also makes a great container plant, used as contrast to spring bulbs on a deck or patio. It can be grown from seed, but with its propensity to send out runners, who needs to grow seeds! While it is best transplanting the cuttings in the spring I have success with it any time of the year. If you have plans for using this plant for some of its myriad of other uses, pick the leaves early in the spring and the flowers when they open. The leaves are heart shaped, the flowers on long stalks are easy to pick. One things for sure you don’t need a Greenthumb to grow violets.

Preservation of the violet leaves and flowers can be achieved by drying them, while the flowers may also be crystallized. The violet flower is eaten raw in salads, throw a few nasturtium or courgette flowers in as well and you have a pretty salad! For medicinal uses, the flower eaten fresh will act as a mild laxative. It is said to help alleviate catarrh and bronchitis when used in syrup. Squeeze a handful of fresh violet flowers into a bath for a soothing, scented and relaxing wallow!

The violet would be very suitable for growing in containers or pots in those shady parts of the garden that you would like to give a bit of lift. A selection of pots with shade loving plants would do well in a corner. Impatiens would be another plant that likes some shade to show off in. Whichever way you use the violet, know that generations before us have used it the same way, and it is hoped that future generations will continue to do so.

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Tips for Brand New Gardeners

Posted on April 24, 2011 by

Gardening Hints for New Gardeners
The internet is chock full of information on gardening hints and tips that are published to help people who are not experienced with growing plants and flowers. There are all sorts of websites and articles that have been developed for expert gardeners too! Even gardeners who have won medals like to keep current on gardening trends. New gardeners usually have quite a few ideas about how they think growing things works.

While you learn how to grow your own garden you are probably going to encounter a lot of contradictory ideas. Figuring out which advice s good and which advice is bad might take you some time. Here are some tips put together by experts that are designed for new gardeners.

Many gardeners use mulch as a way to keep pests at bay while also increasing the nutrient content of their garden soils. Weeds don’t grow very well in mulch. Mulch is a fantastic way to ease your gardening workload and keep the plants and ground healthy at the same time. The fact is that there are a lot of reasons why mulch is so popular.

In addition to keeping the soil moist for your plants the mulch also helps to regulate the temperature of the soil. One of the biggest reasons that mulch is popular is that it is very cheap and far less expensive than “regular” fertilizers. Mulch can work just as well as other garden tools but won’t cost so much.

Before you plant your seedlings or cuttings draw a map of the garden you want to grow. Put your map on paper and then use strings on the ground and marketers to plan out where each plant will grow. This map will be quite helpful later, especially if you are going to be growing a variety of plants. The map will help you remember which plant is which so you can give each plant the right care. Many new gardeners have difficulty in telling one plant from another. A map will help you track the plants you have planted as they begin to grow. Maps can also help you plan next year’s garden after this year’s growing period is over. demonstrates suggestions to drive targeted visitors to your site

Growing your plants inside during the winter months is a fantastic way to begin your garden while you are waiting for the ground to be warm enough for planting. Starting seedlings inside of a warm home while you wait out the last days of winter is a very common practice. Gardeners do this as a way of protecting their plants from the harsh weather that usually occurs at the end of winter-the plants are grown indoors where they are safe and the garden flourishes because it wasn’t subjected to adverse weather conditions. Allowing your seedlings to grow indoors for a month to six weeks before you plant them outside increases their chances of survival by leaps and bounds. Lots of people think that gardening is difficult. The truth is that anybody can be a gardener. Don’t let the gardening books, magazines and television shows intimidate you. You might not be ready to believe this yet but it truly is possible for you to grow the lush gardens you’ve fantasized about having. All you need is a few planting seasons to figure things out and, with enough patience and hard work you can grow a beautiful garden, even if you’ve had bad luck up until now. Have fun! You’ll get to where you want to go!

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Using Container Pots and Plants to Make a Great Container Garden

Posted on March 29, 2011 by
Pansy faces always bring a smile

Pansy faces always bring a smile

Flowers, vegetables, herbs, trees and some fruits can be grown in containers and pots. Containers can be hung from porch railings and some can be used as window boxes.

Keep in mind that containers and pots generally dry out much faster than a garden, especially on hot days or long stretches of dry weather. Water regularly and remember that it is also important when watering the plants to get some advice from your local garden center about the watering preferences of the plants. It is very important to ensure that you understand how much wetting each plant needs.

Watering rates are so important that it might be a good idea to divide the containers and pots into groups with similar sizes and similar watering needs. It is also advisable to separate groups of containers and pots into groups that are split between those that need full sun and those that need more shaded areas. The key to success, as in any kind of gardening, is to put things in the sun that like sun and things in the shade that like shade.

Mixing water-retaining granules with the compost will reduce watering chores but you’ll still have to water the baskets once a day in hot, dry weather.

Planting flowers in your garden containers adds immediate color and liveliness to your yard. However, you may find that some of your plants are so special, they deserve special treatment and pride of place at certain times. I move my containers around a lot as the season progresses so that, the best are always in the most visible positions, but be assured that every one of them are beautiful when blooming. Limited visible exhibiting space in some back yards can also make this option appealing to the gardener.

I am always grateful that weeding is not the problem for containers and pot grown plants as it is in garden beds. It is a wonderful to enjoy plants you’ve successfully started from seed, but again in flower beds the weeds can easily overpower young seeds and weeding can become a chore. Not so with container gardening!

Pot plants are great for adding color to a spot in a garden that ‘needs something,’ and they can also be moved around for when you are entertaining in a certain area.

Terra Cotta has been the classic material for a garden pot since ancient times. This porous material breathes and provides drainage for optimum growing conditions. You can put plants closer than you would in a garden, but with pot plants much more so than with plants in the ground – you’ll have to be vigilant about food and water.

Many may the mistake of thinking that container pots would be a minor accessory in a garden. You need to realize that they can be a major focal point. Not to say that a pot plant will always remain so. As plants get larger and larger, giving them more root room becomes impossible and the act of planting them in the garden may be the only solution.

A large variety of containers are available for all gardens, but be aware of limitations in very dry and hot gardens. For example in the dry, Colorado climate, moss baskets don’t do well.

Here is a plant we like. It is sometimes referred to as “Garden Orchids” ( Spathoglottis). This plant offers year-round color and can be used in landscaped ground beds in warm climates as well as an interesting summertime flowering patio plant for cooler climates.

In container gardening you need to prune and re-pot late in the afternoon out of the sun, or on cool days. We have a lot of hanging baskets with mostly south/southeastern exposure. We find that attractive, well-planted containers are an essential component of today’s garden. In his new book, Pots in the Garden, award-winning horticulturist Ray Rogers offers a fresh approach to container planting and explains the basic design principles of container gardening.

Another tip is to make an arrangement of plants in your basket at the garden center before you buy. You’ll easily find many plants suitable for pot and container gardening at garden centers. Remember, if you cannot make up your mind on what pot would suit the plant, experiment, and don’t be afraid to try something original. If you decide you do not like the result you can always re-pot the bonsai the following year into a more preferred style. Equally, a low ground-hugging container can be planted with an annual to match or complement its neighbors, seemingly seamlessly. Or a wide-based and tall container can be placed as a contrast, with larger plants to be a focus rather than a background.

We have many more great ideas for you including about Container Pots at the Container Gardening Magazine.

We have many more great ideas for you including about Container Pots at the Container
Gardening Magazine.

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